You know how you create a countdown for something? You keep watching the days (or years) click away and then "Bam!!", its there? Yea....that was me until a month ago.
Since I was wee lass listening to stories of our family and where we came from, I had my first taste of wanderlust and a stirring in my soul for someplace other than "home". As I got older, the passion only grew more, and drove me to learn about my roots, my ancestors paths, and wanting to eventually place my hands on the same ground of the people who shaped who my family is today....who I am today. Hell, I even changed my major to Anthropology.
Now, while Scotland was always my original destination, the historical nerd in me felt the importance of experiencing as much of the U.K. and even France, as possible. So off I went with joyful abandon to Europe and to make it easier to follow, I've broken it up into Parts.
Part 1.....London.
Getting there.....
30 years after I first felt that call to Scotland, I found myself sitting in the British Airways lounge, sipping a glass of Chardonnay, and thinking "I can't believe I'm
almost there". The time for boarding arrived, and so I headed down the tunnel into the big beautiful Boeing 747, bubbling over with excitement (and a bit of nervousness), I looked up the ladder to the 2nd level of the plane where a pod had my name on it and thought "Holy cow...this is happening".
The 2nd level of the 747 is small, somewhat intimate, and in this case it wasn't completely full. If you haven't seen the configuration of the upstairs Club World seats, they are set up in pairs, where you are facing each other with a middle partition that can be pulled up for privacy after take off. Since I was travelling alone, this worked out perfectly. I was in the window side sitting backwards, which I had only previously done on private jets before and actually, doesn't bother me at all and makes for an interesting take off and landing. But one of the best perks of the window side....it also includes extra cubbies and a shelf so you can somewhat spread out. I gratefully took my glass of champagne, got comfy and was ready for take-off in what was a spectacular Arizona sunset.
The service in Club World is outstanding. The champagne felt like it was non-stop (or maybe that was because I kept drinking it), the flight was super smooth, and it was nice to just be able to kick back and relax. I had also completely forgotten that they serve dinner, so after quickly scanning the menu I choose the heirloom caprese starter, followed by beef tenderloin with a red wine reduction and dauphinoise potatoes, ending the meal with my favorite...a cheese platter and really, the food was, for being 35,000 ft up, not terrible.
After I could eat no more, I laid my bed out, put on my aloe socks, snuggled under my White Company blanket, and closed my eyes for my non-stop, overnight flight to England. In fact, for someone who prefers red eyes but never really sleeps on a plane, I found myself waking up just an hour and a half out from landing. I chose a light breakfast, drank my tea, and stared wide-eyed out the window as we flew over the English countryside to finally land at London Heathrow.
I've flown International before, so I know to expect security to be either terrible (I see you Aruba) or fairly easy...this was actually amazing how quickly I was able to get through. Now, I do have Global Entry and TSA for the US and on entering the US, but in this case, I was given the fast pass for security and wow...was it ever! I literally walked right up, answered the questions, got stamped and then on my way! Even grabbing my luggage was easy! (Shwew). My flight was actually 30 minutes early and my driver hadn't arrived yet but that actually gave me time to really grasp the fact that I was standing on English soil. I'm really here!
Not even 20 minutes after gaining my bearings, I looked around, saw my name on a sign, headed to my driver, totally forgot about right side driving as I was chauffeured into the back left side of the Mercedes, and away we went. (I actually can't say enough about Blacklane. I love the convenience, the cleanliness of the cars, the professionalism of the drivers and the overall ease of the service).
The Hotel and Day 1....
St. Ermins Hotel is part of Marriott's Autograph Collection and after pulling into the hotel, you
feel like you are transported back in time.
The hotel is located in Westminster (and on this trip, there was a bit of construction near the hotel, but it never detracted from my visit) and if you are a fan of history, you will find it here.
St. Ermins is also in a fabulous location, making is easy to walk and see so many amazing places, especially if you are a history geek like myself.
Some fun facts from their website:
In 1940 Winston Churchill, held a historic meeting at St. Ermin’s Hotel. He asked a group of remarkable people to join him in ‘Setting Europe Ablaze’ – this elite set, were to become the founding members of the SOE (Special Operations Executive).
The SOE carried out covert operations during WW2, from their headquarters at St. Ermin’s where they occupied an entire floor. (MI6 were stationed two floors above).
In the hotel Lobby hangs an original SOE agent's printed secret coded silk. Agents secret coded messages were printed on pieces of silk as silk had the advantage of being easily hidden in the lining of clothes.
On Tuesday 19th May 2011, Winston Churchill’s grandson the Hon. Nicholas Soames MP officially marked the restoration of a division bell in the hotel’s lobby with a drinks reception. A division bell is used in the immediate neighbourhood of Palace of Westminster (which houses Parliament) to signal that a division is occurring and that members of the House of Commons or of the House of Lords have eight minutes to get to their chosen Division lobby to vote for or against the resolution.
Speaking of the lobby...when you walk in the doors, you are blown away by the elegance of it. From the rococo style walls to the glittering opulence of the lighting features, its just beautiful. I was just a wee bit early, and even though my room wasn't ready, it provided an opportunity to wander around and bask in the beauty of the hotel. I walked up the elaborate curved staircase to find their spectacular terrace, and decided why not just sit, relax with my book, and have some wine while my room is being prepared (and ok, some of their super tasty chips).
My room was ready and I was pleasantly surprised to find that I had been upgraded to a full suite! Not a bad way to start my birthday trip. Not only that....but my wee fridge was stocked with water AND a legit Kit Kat and I had a tray with Champagne waiting for me!
I knew that I would want to do something quiet and easy once I arrived in London, and once I found out that St. Ermins has a lovely afternoon tea, I placed my reservation so, a quick change in the room, and off I went back to the terrace for my tea time (complete with unlimited Prosecco...yes that does seem to be trending so far on this trip). The tea options provided everything from full bodied to light and fresh, and since I was partaking in Proscecco, I went with a lovely green tea. Now, for me, afternoon tea has always had a place in my life and my heart. Whether I was back home with my family and we would go, or with my daughter at some of the wonderful spots around Los Angeles (Millennium Biltmore, The Langham, and the quaint High Tea Cottage), its always been one of the things that makes me happy. And the tea at St. Ermins didn't disappoint!
So what did I get???
Freshly baked scones - Plain & fruit scones with clotted cream and rooftop jam (they actually have a rooftop garden and raise their own bees)
Free range egg mayonnaise with watercress finger sandwich
Coronation chicken finger sandwich (literally now my favorite chicken salad ever)
Honey roast ham with wholegrain mustard finger sandwich
Scottish smoked salmon with cream cheese & chives finger sandwich (I am not a salmon fan...and it was so good)
Classic cucumber finger sandwich (the OG)
White chocolate and carrot choux bun
Lemon macaron
Chocolate and salted caramel pot (so good)
Mango jelly and coconut pana cotta
Apple and cinnamon mousse (that adorable apple!)
Everything was fresh, delicious, surprisingly filling and I went to my room completely satiated and ready for a good night sleep on my gorgeous upholstered bed, so that I could take on Day 2 with gusto!
Day 2....and my 43rd day on this earth!
After an early night to bed (or I "fell asleep" because of copious amounts of prosecco), I woke up ready to take on London!
Today, the only thing on my true agenda was my reservation for birthday tea at the legendary Fortnum and Mason (see, I love me some tea!) so I tied on my favorite Adidas with Cloudfoam shoes and set out to explore!
As I mentioned before, the location is a historical goldmine, especially for someone like myself who has been obsessed with English history (from the Conqueror to the Stuarts) and after taking a "wrong" turn down the street (I had intended to walk through St. James Park first), I suddenly found myself staring at Westminster Abbey, and oh was she glorious in the morning sun.
As I reluctantly tore myself away because Westminster was on my agenda for the next day, I continued down the street and found myself passing the House of Lords, Her Majesty's Treasury and Churchills War Rooms when I noticed people gathering in front of a gorgeous building....and then I realized, I managed to stumble on the Horse Guards Parade! Now, when I woke up that morning, I looked up the timing of the parade and somehow thought I had missed it, so imagine my surprise and delight to be standing, literally at the edge of the Parade. They were a vision...the light glinted off of the uniforms and made the horses almost glow and the gentle tinkling of their tack as they shifted and adjusted under the August sun sounded like a musical. It was perfect.
As I continued my journey, I ended up standing in front of the National Portrait Gallery....and just couldn't resist going in and wander through the rooms, looking at absolutely incredible paintings and just letting myself get taken away by the wonder of it all. (And even found one of my favorite French Royal Mistresses, Madame du Pompadour).
After leaving the Gallery, I strolled through Leicester Square where they were playing The Lion King outdoors, past Piccadilly and eventually headed towards Fortnum, so that I knew where to go. Fortunately (or unfortunately) it was close enough to Bond Street to be dangerous (although it was at Fortnum that I ended up pulling out the Visa....darn you Sisley Paris, with your amazing Black Rose Cream Mask which makes my skin literally feel brand new and Eau Du Noir, a timeless and elegant perfume that makes me feel womanly ). I still had a wee bit of time to kill, so I popped into The Kings Head and grabbed a seat at the window, providing the perfect location for people watching until it was time to make my reservation.
In what seemed like no time at all, my alarm announced that it was time to leave for tea and I headed down the Burlington Arcade towards Fortnum. As I entered the doors of Fortnum and Mason, held open by perfectly dressed doorman, and tried not to stare open mouthed at the first floor of the store. So I'm a self professed foodie. And I literally felt like I walked into Foodie Heaven (at least, until I discovered House of Bruer in Scotland. But that story is for later). There is the iconic hampers, teas, biscuits, chocolates.....sigh. But my reason for being there, at least for right now, was waiting for me on the fourth floor, in the Queens Diamond Jubilee Tea room. I exit the lift to be greeted by a talented pianist, and sit down to the most exquisite tea I've ever been fortunate to enjoy.
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